Happy Lunar New Year

POSTED Sun Feb.10.2013 by Dave Seah UNDER General

Happy Lunar New Year

Feb 10 is the start of the lunar new year, which to me is “Chinese New Year” because of my Taiwanese ethnicity. In Taiwan a 9-day holiday officially began. There’s a number of traditions, such as cleaning the house thoroughly to welcome the new year, banquets, gift giving, wearing of new clothing, and so forth. Here in frigid New Hampshire, I celebrated by doing a bachelor-pass over the kitchen and living room, buying some appropriate candies from the local Vietnamese market, and cooking a nice-looking meal for myself with some pu-erh tea.

THE MEAL: Far from traditional, it’s a mix of white and brown rice, some frozen broccoli, some pickled Japanese-style radish, and marinated pork loin dredged in tapioca flour then deep-fried for 90 seconds in 350 degree oil. The marinade consisted of soy sauce, sugar, 5-spice powder, some dry sherry, and garlic powder. I just think it’s pretty.

THE TEA: It’s pu-erh tea that my Dad brought me several years ago. Earthy and subtly complex, it’s a milder tea that helps cut through the grease. I probably shouldn’t be drinking it with this meal, for all I know, but I had brewed some earlier.

THE CANDY: Although it’s from a Vietnamese market, it looks just like the stuff we would get in Taiwan: peanut squares, sesame seed squares, some peanuts coated in some kind of thick sugar shell, and a gummy sesame chew. The peanut squares are my favorite; they are like peanut brittle, but structurally are more like Rice Krispy bars.

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Deck Tomato Update

POSTED Sun Aug.26.2012 by Dave Seah UNDER Condominium Gardening TAGGED

I first wrote about the deck tomatoes in mid-June. It’s been 2.5 months since then, so here’s an update.

tomatoes July 3rd – Two weeks of growing, the sub-irrigation tomatoes are looking good.

tomatoes July 7th – First flower buds appear on the sub-irrigation planters.


tomatoes July 9th – About to head to California for a week of work, deployed these capillary house plant feeders to keep the upside-down tomatoes watered.


tomatoes July 29th – First sign of tomatoes growing on the sub-irrigated tomatoes.


tomatoes August 8th – The upside-down tomatoes finally show flower buds, a whole month later. This is due to the reduction of sun and lack of consistent watering with the upside-down planter design.


tomatoes August 8th – Here’s the state of the upside-down tomato plant. You can see how the design of the planter actually shades the plant too much until it gets to a certain size.


tomatoes August 13th – The upside-down planter flower finally open.


tomatoes August 16th – In the meantime, the sub-irrigated planters are doing pretty well. That first tomato from July 29th is now the size of my thumb.


tomatoes You can see how much taller the plants are compared to 6 weeks ago. I had to start tying the plants to the supports, and then run stay lines like the rigging of masts on a sailing ship to keep everything from falling over.


tomatoes tomatoes tomatoes

August 20 to 23 – More and more tomatoes appear on the sub-irrigated tomatoes. There are at least 15 or 16 of them, all growing. I now need to water the tomatoes every day…they are very thirsty.


tomatoes The current size of the tomatoes. I wonder when they’ll start changing color?

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Growing Deck Tomatoes

POSTED Mon Jun.11.2012 by Dave Seah UNDER Condominium Gardening TAGGED

Two kinds of tomato planters for my deck

I’ve been wanting to grow tomatoes on my deck for a few years. After considering hanging upside-down tomato planters last year—nixed because I couldn’t hang anything without nailing into the siding, which was against condominium regulations—I’ve gone ahead an purchased a Suncast standing tomato planter from Amazon.

This tomato sprout hangs from the bottom of the Suncast planter. It’s basically a raised platform on four legs that allows you to plant your upside-down tomato plant without hanging it from something. It cost me about $45.

Next, I purchased a bag of potting soil and six “Big Boy” tomato seedlings, which I have come to learn are probably not the best for a hanging tomato planter. What I want is something called a “determinate” tomato plant, which stops growing in length. These are also called “bush tomatoes”. They tend to be early tomatoes; a species called “Early Girl” is apparently a good bet. The Big Boy is apparently an “indeterminate” type of tomato, meaning it’s going to grow and grow. Uh oh.

Tomatoes apparently need a lot of sunlight and water. Sunlight I’m not too worried about, but the water is going to be a problem. I can run a garden hose from the first floor up to my deck, so daily watering shouldn’t be a problem (especially since I’ve rigged a harness to keep the hose off the ground and out of the way, so I can leave it connected). However, when I am travelling for business I’m going to need an automated watering solution. Preferably one that is not expensive.

I first looked at irrigation systems that required pumps. There are indoor house plant watering machines, such as this Claber automatic watering system, but they are a bit expensive and I wanted something that didn’t require electricity to operate. Plus, the system needs to exist outside on my deck, not inside the house. I looked to see if I could find parts to build a gravity-driven drip irrigation system at DripDepot, which has affordable kits, but it seemed a little more complicated than what I was looking for right now.

Then I remembered that there irrigation systems that use capillary action, and found these Austrian self-watering probes. I’ve placed an order for the five-pack, and I’ll see if all 5 of them can keep a tomato plant thriving.

I also made two sub-irrigated planters (aka self-watering planters), which have the water supply underneath a suspended soil bed in a closed container.

The water is wicked upward into the soil through capillary action, and is very water efficient. The DIY approach I’m taking has cost me about 25 dollars in parts: a big plastic tub, some supporting pots, and some PVC piping. Buying an actual Earthbox from their website isn’t that much more; I may buy one just to see what it’s like.

The aeration screen is made with two supporting flower pots and placed inside the tub. The potting mix goes on top of the screen, with some going into the well. The wick chamber has holes punched in the side, at the bottom and top. The holes at the top are to help aerate the inside. Water does not go all the way to the top.


Top view of the screen in the tub. Note upper right hole for water feed pipe. I had cut the hole too big, so I made a small cover, held down with a zip tie. The assembled planter, ready to be filled with potting mix.


After mix is wetted and watered, tomatoes are placed on opposite sides of the planter and covered with sheet plastic to help keep moisture in.

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Poached Chicken

POSTED Sun Feb.06.2011 by Dave Seah UNDER Cooking Methods

I’ve been interested in the thermal energy transfer characteristics of cooking lately. Took 9″ stock pot, 3.5″ of water, brought to rolling boil. Ginger slices, some salt, some cooking wine added, heat shut off. 1lb 4oz split chicken breast (2 pieces) added, covered with burner off, but remaining on it.

35 minutes elapsed. Standing temperature of water, measured with RayTech MT4, was 160 degrees. Chicken interior temperature 140ish degrees, which means it isn’t cooked to death though not high enough temperature to kill salmonella. Ya take your chances for the sake of taste. Ate with a bit of soy sauce and sesame oil. Delicious.

Will derive energy estimates later.

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Pan Fried Sweet Potatoes

POSTED Sun Feb.06.2011 by Dave Seah UNDER Cooking Methods

Had a big sweet potato leftover from Thanksgiving. Still seemed firm, so peeled it and sliced it into pieces about 4cm square and 3-6mm thick. Heated vegetable oil in 10″ heavy skillet (about 2mm deep) between “medium” and “medium high” on electric burner.

Monitored temperature of oil and pan with RayTech MT4 as the slices cooked. I was looking for the point where browning started to occur, indicating caramelization. This started around 310-325 degrees. Noted that number of pieces in pan determined equilibrium of pan temperature (reinforcing the rule of thumb about “crowding the pan” when browning). About 6-minutes per side, at 325 degrees or so, produced reasonably browned and cooked sweet potato slices, which I blotted and then sprinkled kosher salt upon. Then, inspired by recent experience with Australian meat pies, doused with plenty of Heinz Ketchup.

Followup experiment: how can I determine the heat output of my burner to a particular pan, and reliably set how much power is needed to maintain a particular temperature given a certain type of food with a certain amount of coverage, given a particular piece of cookware? First, repeat experiment with magnetic induction cooking plate, which has thermostat-controlled surface.

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